Section 4 to 4-3
January 1972

It is important to remember that your BASIC CIRCUIT BREAKER ELECTRICAL SYSTEM may be altered to conform to the electrical requirements of your engine and additional optional accessories. The wiring diagram in this section must, in some cases, be augmented by the specific engine wiring diagram that appears in the Engine Section of this manual. Also note that the description of any special optional electrical accessory (i.e. electric bilge pump) will be found in another, more appropriate section (Plumbing) yet may appear in this section's wiring diagram or the engine wiring diagram. In the event you make any electrical modifications to your boat be sure that you follow the WIRING DIAGRAM or consult a competent MARINE ELECTRICIAN. Boat wiring is considerably different from house wiring due to the marine environment and other conditions not associated with houses.


The Master Power Control Panel features integrated, simplified controls and circuit breaker protection to permit safe and efficient operation of your boat's electrical equipment. All panel components have been carefully selected for their proven performance in marine applications. The basic panel is of a metal alloy which is inherently corrosion resistant and is doubly protected to optimize resistance to the effects of the marine environment. A one year warranty will be validated by Marinetics Corporation, P.O.Box 1015, Newport Beach, Calif. 92663, if the enclosed warranty registration form is submitted within 30 days from the date of commissioning.

Electrical current is directed from a 12 volt, 105 amp battery or batteries through the Master Power Control Panel for engine starting, battery charging, and accessory loads.

While the standard installation is one battery, many owners do considerable cruising and "living aboard" so a second battery may be added to meet these additional electrical requirements. Panel selection of "BAT 1" or "BAT 2" determines which of the two batteries will be utilized for engine starting and subsequent charging. Before activating the electrical system, use the Battery Condition Indicator to ascertain the condition of your batteries.


This type of "indicator" or "meter" is technically referred to as a "Suppressed Zero Voltmeter". Note that calibrations do not start at zero but provide a full scale reading from 8 or 10 to 16 volts, depending on the meter. Below 8 or 10 volts the battery charge is so low that terminal voltage readings are meaningless. Approximate voltage range interpretations are as follows:

It is important for you to understand that the reading on the Battery Condition Indicator Dial is indexed from the TOGGLE TEST SWITCH POSITION REGARDLESS OF THE MASTER SWITCH POSITION unless it is in the "BOTH" position. When the Master Switch is in the "BOTH" position then the Battery Condition Indicator Dial will indicate BOTH BATTERY CONDITIONS NO MATTER WHICH WAY THE TOGGLE TEST SWITCH IS INDEXED. When the Master Switch is in either the "OFF", "BAT 1" or "BAT 2" positions, the meter will read the condition of the battery TOWARDS which you index the Toggle Test Switch. Note that panel and meter illumination is also provided by this same Toggle Test Switch.

Before activating the electrical system, check the condition of both batteries and then select the STRONGEST BATTERY FOR ENGINE STARTING. Index the Master Switch to the strong battery, operate the BLOWER FOR FIVE MINUTES, and then start your engine. It will usually require about 15 to 30 minutes of engine running time to bring the starting battery back up to charge. Check the ammeter to assure that charging is normal and when the selected starting battery has been restored it is placed on reserve by switching to the other battery so subsequent charging and accessory loads will be confined to this second battery. IT IS A GOOD PRACTICE TO BRING THE FIRST SELECTED BATTERY UP TO FULL CHARGE BEFORE PUTTING IT ON RESERVE AND CHANGING TO THE SECOND BATTERY.

Use the Master Switch in "BOTH" position ONLY for emergency starting when both batteries are low, or for "top off" charging when both batteries are near full charge. When both batteries are completely charged, transfer to either battery, keeping one battery always in reserve. This is especially important when you realize that there is no way to start your inboard engine with a dead battery, like pushing a car when you're in the same predicament!!



Accessory loads may be selected as desired by indexing the appropriate panel breakers "ON" so current may flow from the switched battery to the accessory. A branch circuit overload will cause the accessory circuit breaker to "trip", i.e., the breaker will automatically open the circuit and its handle will flip to the "OFF" position. After correction of the fault, the breaker may be manually indexed "ON".

The RUNNING LIGHTS switch activates the recessed red and green lensed lights forward and the white, 12 point stern light aft. The COMPASS LIGHT connection for the cockpit is also on this switch. When under sail at night, these are the only lights that should be shown, except for the shining of a white light on the sails if you feel there is a real need for greater recognition.

The WHITE STERN LIGHT takes a GE-68 type bulb while a GE-90 bulb should be used for the RED PORT LIGHT and a GE-94 bulb for the GREEN STARBOARD LIGHT. It is important that a stronger bulb be used with the darker lenses or visibility of the lights will be considerably less than the required one mile.

The BOW LIGHT switch is for the 20 point white light on the mast and is to be used in conjunction with the running lights WHEN UNDER POWER OR WHEN MOTOR SAILING. It also serves as a quick way of illuminating the jib at night to check its trim and in emergency cases when recognition is important. This light will use a ~E-68 bulb if replacement is necessary.

The cabin lights have their own individual switches, but must be activated by the CABIN LIGHT switch on the Master Power Control Panel. The bulb for these round dome lights is a W-1141. If the cabin lights start getting dim, this is fair warning that the battery needs a charge or is getting old. Remember that you have an automotive type battery whose charge and water level must be checked at least once a month. If your boat is to be unused or stored for extended periods of time it is advisable to remove the battery (5) and store in a warm, dry location.

Periodically check all wires, connections, and terminals for loose connections which may cause electric sparks or power loss. This is especially important with the engine wires. When leaving the boat, FIRST TURN OFF THE ENGINE, THEN INDEX THE MASTER SWITCH TO OFF.



If optional lightning protection has been provided it will consist of #8 9x21 stranded wire connecting the uppers, headstay, or backstay chainplates to a common point on one of the keel bolts.


This 32 point white light meets the international and inland rules for a light to be used when at anchor. It has a GE-68 bulb and would be activated by the masthead light switch.


When the optional shore power cord is plugged in, a Circuit Breaker Switch brings 110 volt AC current to the duplex outlets below and is located on the Accessory Control Panel. If there is any short or improper connection in the system the Circuit Breaker Switch will "trip", i.e., the breaker will automatically open the circuit and its handle will flip to the "OFF" position. After correction of the fault, the breaker may be manually indexed "ON" and your 110 volt A.C. appliances will work again. Be sure that all 110 volt A.C. appliances, other than lamps, have adequate grounds or the moist atmosphere and wet feet can really increase the shock potential.


These extremely light optional instrument wires are run only for wind guides, anemometers, and other mast head instruments that have a low power drain and ARE NOT TO BE USED FOR LIGHTS OF ANY TYPE. On the larger masts, these wires will be run through a 3/4" PVC pipe that is riveted to the inside of the mast.


When optional spreader lights are installed at the factory, if they are mounted on tubular aluminum spreaders, you will note that the wires run OUTSIDE the spreaders and the lights are CLAMPED to the spreaders. This is done so that NO HOLES will be drilled in the spreaders to subsequently weaken them. The light for each unit is a 4" diameter sealed beam type GE-4411 and is activated by the SPREADER LIGHT switch on the Master Control Panel.

A second type of "Spreader Light" may also be mounted that is really a single FOREDECK LIGHT and is mounted on the forward side of the mast with the BOW LIGHT on top and the single Foredeck Light shining downward and forward. In many respects this is a better way of illuminating the foredeck without getting light into the skipper's eyes, is cleaner than lights hanging down from the spreaders and is one less fitting aloft to mess with: The bulb is a GE-212-l and it would be activated by the Spreader Light Switch on the Master Control Panel.


At present, the optional battery charger we install is manufactured by LEWCO Electronics, 456 North Newport Blvd., Newport Beach, Ca. 92660 and carries a one year guarantee by the manufacturer. This silicon diode automatic battery charger has been especially designed for marine use in converting A.C. to D.C. current. The transformers in this unit incorporate isolated primary and secondary coils to prevent electrolysis and eliminate shock on the charging lines. Both the A.C. input and the D.C. output are fused for safety, while blowers or fans have been completely eliminated - thus eliminating any excessive servicing.

4-3 Wiring Diagram

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This page last modified November 15, 1999